
<h2>Engine</h2>
Engine compartment should be clean and look stock.
Too many "custom modifications" could be hard to undo and their reliability is
questionable.
<ul>
<li> Coolant hoses: Any signs of leaks? Also check for salt like deposits around the fittings. Does the hose rubber seem ok (springy, strong) or is it old and
too soft or has cracks in it? Price for new coolant hose set is several hundred USD
<li> Timing belt: Does it have the cover? If so, to see unscrew screws around
the cover perimeter, and one screw in the middle. Timing belt should be
centered on the toothed pulleys. Timing belt should twist 45 degrees if 
twisted gentlyly hand. Timing belt should not look frayed, have any cracks in the rubber or ridges or deep scratches on the top (non-toothed side).
The timing belt should be replaced every 60000 miles. A new or recent replacement receipt could replace this check. If the timing belt breaks the engine valves and head will likely be damaged.
<li> Air filter: A reasonably new and clean filter gives a hint of good general
maintenance. 
</ul>
<img src="EngineCheck.jpg">

<h2>Suspension</h2>
The suspension should be "tight", ie there should be no or little gap in the 
joints. When driving the gap can be heard as clunking sounds when going over
bumps, or felt as a deadband on the steering. When parked the steering wheel
should show resistance when turned in both directions. A no resistance zone of
more than 2cm is not good.
<p>
When checking under:
<ul>
<li> Ball joints: Are all the rubber boots intact? If a rubber boot is broken 
peek through the hole. Is the ball inside shiny steel (good) or dirty, rusted 
or pitted (bad). Is the ball greased with clean grease?
<li> Sway bar: the lower link breaks often. Is it still in place?
</ul>
<p>
When jacked up do the wheels turn freely?
Check brake discs (by unbolting wheel or peeking and feeling behind the
tire): Clean, no deep rust? No deep groves?

<img src="BallJoints.jpg">
<p>
When jacked up do the wheels turn freely?
Check brake discs (by unbolting wheel or peeking and feeling behind the
tire): Clean, no deep rust? No deep groves?

<p>
Uneven tire wear indicates some kind of suspension misalignment. Pulling
to one side when driving is also a suspension or brake problem.

<img src="TireWear.jpg">

<h2>Underside</h2>
What condition is the underside of the bus in? Severe rust? Or still
coated with intact black undercoating?
Take a look at the thick pipes (coolant pipes) if metal, are they deeply 
rusted? Look for seepage of coolant (either wet or as a dried up salt deposit)
Look at the small tubing (brakes). Looks unrusted?
<img src="CoolantPipes.jpg">
<p>
Is the sound deadening bottom pan still there? (no catastrophy if not,
since in the US it is not checked at the safety inspection)
Is it about to fall apart due to rust?
<img src="Bottompan.jpg">

<h2>Body rust</h2>
The busses rust first along seams and windshield glass. This is annoyingly
hard to fix permanently.
<p>
<img src="SeamRust.jpg">
<p>
Some rust is from the inside. This shows up as unbroken bubbles.
Common on the utility inlets (above) and the front lip (2nd below), where
water enters and runs around the inside of the metal, then rusts though
inside-out.
<img src="Rustbubbles.jpg">
<p>
Anoter area is the lip just above the bumber.
<img src="FrontLip.jpg">
<img src="Wheelwell.jpg">